Last week I wrote about a long-time favorite recipe of mind: The Vegetarian Epicure’s Eggplant Soufflé. It caught member Suzy Dannette Brown’s attention. The owner of The Brown Bag Nutrition & Chef Services loves eggplant and decided to add more Middle Eastern flavors–and make it for herself. That same day the eggplant was in the oven roasting and her creative juices flowing. Suzy added caramelized red onions, Mediterranean oregano, substituted grated parmesan for fresh sheep feta (love this idea), cow’s milk for almond milk, and oats for wheat flour.
I asked her why she made the changes.
“Well, I love roasted eggplant to the point of almost burnt,” she explained. “This is why I roast it till it is collapsing. I find it is easier if you cut it in half versus leaving it whole. I prefer this method. The end product is to my personal liking. I know roasting it whole until very very soft other people like better. That is, I think a personal choice.
“I love red onions so deeply caramelized (just before burning) with brandy. Sometimes you may need more fat in the pan so they do not burn. I use a small red onion. I think red onions caramelize better than their yellow and white siblings. I also prefer the flavor.
“Putting the two together is amazing.”
Suzy also added the garlic to the roux to permeate the roux with the garlic flavor. Adding in the chopped caramelized onions, she said, darkens the roux. “It’s a quick way to turn it from blond to brown,” she said.
Because eggplant to her is so Mediterranean, Suzy used the oregano and feta. In fact, she suggests using a zaatar spice mix to really hike those flavors.
Finally, she doesn’t drink cow’s milk and so chose almond milk and prefers oat flour to all-purpose wheat flour.
Suzy’s next step is to work with aquafaba (chickpea water found in canned chickpeas), whipping the aquafaba to replace whipped egg whites.
“I love taking traditional recipes and see how I can make them vegan,” she said.
Eggplant Soufflé for 2
Suzy Dannette Brown, The Brown Bag Nutrition & Chef Services
1 cup roasted eggplant, pat dry and chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon butter
1/2 teaspoon avocado oil
1/4 cup sliced red onion
1/2 teaspoon Mediterranean oregano
1 tablespoon brandy (optional)
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon oat flour
1 medium clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup almond milk
1 ounce fresh sheep feta, crumbled
2 large eggs, separated
Middle Eastern chili sauce (optional)
2 10.5-ounce ramekins, buttered and sprinkled with salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 400°.
Slice 1 small eggplant in half lengthwise. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a lined sheet pan flesh side down. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the pulp is soft and caramelized. Cool to room temperature. Scrape out all the pulp and discard the skin. Place the pulp on a paper towel to drain a bit and chop it. Season it with salt and pepper, as needed. This can be done a day in advance.
In a small skillet heat a ½ teaspoon of butter and ½ teaspoon of avocado oil. Add red onion. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté onions on low until they begin to caramelize and turn golden brown. I like to add a splash of brandy to give the onions a bit more depth of flavor.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan. Stir in the oat flour and let the roux cook for a few minutes. Add minced garlic and caramelized onions to combine well into the roux.
Slowly whisk the almond milk into the roux. When the sauce thickens, remove it from the heat and stir in the oregano, feta and the eggplant pulp. Season with salt and pepper. Add the egg yolks and fold in until everything is well combined.
Whisk the egg whites until they are quite stiff but not yet dry. Stir about a third of the egg whites into the eggplant mixture thoroughly. Gently fold in the remaining whites.
Pile the prepared soufflé ramekins. Place ramekins on a rimed baking sheet, place in oven and fill with some warm water (just enough to bing up ¼ inch of the ramekins). Place in a preheated, 400-degree oven. Bake the soufflé about 10 to 12 minutes. The soufflés should be firm to touch but not dry. Serve at once.
I like to top them with a Middle Eastern chili sauce
Are you a chef who likes to turn traditional recipes upside down? What have been your successes? What didn’t work out quite the way you wanted?
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This week we have a treat for you. As increasing numbers of people are getting involved in the “urban farming movement,” raising backyard chickens is becoming part of the equation. We have a member who not only has her own flock in her Northern California backyard, but is eager to share what she’s learned about raising them. So, here’s Suzy Dannette Brown on her “ladies”:
I certainly am no expert but this year I have been learning a lot about caring for chickens. The first thing I would say about raising them is, “Don’t be afraid to ask questions!” There never is a silly question. Of course, everyone has an opinion, so listen, but do what your gut feels is best for your flock.
How did I get into raising chickens? Well, I’ve wanted them since we bought our home in 2000. I have friends who have chickens and the thought of having fresh eggs sounded great. Dave, my husband, kept saying, “When we level the back part of the lot I’ll build you a coop.” I knew that was going to be a long time coming so I just kept on dreaming. Then last summer my next-door neighbor, who had a flock, moved to Modesto. The first thing I learned about chickens was that they can’t survive a move from one climate to another. So we inherited five lovely ladies. And so our journey began.
Today our flock includes one New Hampshire Red, one Rhode Island Red, two Black Sex-Links, and our newest one, an Americana. And the eggs we get from them are marvelous. The two reds lay brown extra large to jumbo eggs. The Black Sex-Links lay medium to large brown eggs. And our Americana lays blue or green eggs. And, by the way, if you’re going to raise chickens you must have at least two; they’re flock animals and won’t thrive alone.
I love raising my ladies; they are fun and bring me joy. People say chickens are not that smart. I will argue that they are very smart, at least about some things. For instance, they have a sophisticated flock hierarchy that involves eating order and leadership while roaming the yard—hence the phrase “pecking order.” I learned quickly that the sweetest hen you have can become the BIGGEST BITCH to new flock members. So properly introducing hens and chicks into the flock is so important.
For information on introducing new hens, chicks, and pullets to your flock go to the website Fresh Eggs Daily, a blog/website that is packed full of useful information that is very simple to follow. They espouse the strategy of isolate, segregate, acclimate, and integrate. This is how I introduce new members now. In fact I am now trying to introduce my eight-week-old chick, the Americana, to the hens. We are in the segregation portion of the process. I am thinking maybe this weekend I will integrate her with the ladies. She seems ready, and a little lonely.
Feeding the Ladies
So, what do I feed the hens?
Well, as a personal chef you know I’m going to give them nothing but the best. I bring all my veggie scraps home for them to eat.
- Brussels sprouts
- Spinach, kale, chard
- Pumpkin/Squash seeds
- Sweet potato skins
I give them fresh veggies every day. They also get a mix of organic laying pellets, a natural supplement to help the hens molting, mealworms and dried crickets, scratch blend (organic scratch, sunflower seeds, and dried fruit), and oyster and egg shells.
Once the little peep peep is integrated with the flock the laying pellets will stop for 14 weeks and they will get organic grow crumble since lay pellets have a high calcium content that chicks shouldn’t eat.
And, they always need fresh water.
To Name or Not To Name?
Well we tried not to name the ladies for the longest time. But then something happened. We would be talking about the chickens and could not differentiate between them. So now they have names, but we truly don’t consider them pets. However, I warn you. Chickens are livestock; the elements will kill them. Predators will take them. It happens and there is no way around it. I had a coyote take two and a neighbor dog take two.
So, even with that in mind, we have Sarah, Rhoda (of course), Phyllis and Flo, and Amelia, our new Americana peep peep.
How to Protect Against Intruders
I don’t have a fenced yard so I have to keep an eye on them when they’re let out of the hen yard—our enclosed open area attached to the hen house—to roam free. But I also have strategies in place to protect them, even when they’re in the hen yard, that I highly recommend.
I find that sprinkling cayenne pepper all around the outside of the hen yard and house is effective. Skunks, raccoons, and some other rodents don’t like the smell and will stay away. This won’t guard against coyotes, however. They will stalk your house to learn your routine. So you have to be smarter than them and make sure that your chickens are completely enclosed when you’re not around to watch them.
If snakes are an issue in your area, you need to make sure that your fencing holes are less than one inch in diameter. Snakes will take the eggs and the chicks.
Rats and mice are a part of chicken raising. Rodents stress the chickens, will steal the eggs, and may harm your hens. I’m still working on how to eliminate this threat, but here are a few tips:
- When building your hen house and safe hen yard place one-quarter-inch metal fabric down as a foundation and make sure you run it up on the foundation board. This will keep the rodents from burrowing under the yard.
- Around the entire bottom of the fencing place the same metal fabric all around. This will help keep rodents and other intruders out of the hens’ safe zone.
- Keep your hen yard clean of debris. I rake the yard once a week to keep uneaten food out of the yard. This will attract the rodents.
- NEVER leave food out; when I first got my hens there was a hanging feeder full of pellets. That is just a 24-hour buffet for the rodents. Only put out what the chickens will eat that day.
These things won’t totally stop the rodents but it will help keep them away. I live in the forest; this is part of my life.
Of course, there is another means of protection: get a cat!
Chicken Hawks and Other Birds of Prey, Plus Weather
Our current hen yard is covered, not only with chicken wire but also with opaque filon panels. We will be adding an unpaneled yard so the hens can bathe and bask in the sun. It is important that they have sunshine, and they like to look up in the sky to check for predators. But be sure to keep it covered with chicken wire.
Chickens don’t like mud and puddles, so make sure you have a dry spot for them during wet winter weather.
We’ve spent a lot on the hen house and caring for the ladies. We will never get that back in eggs. The joy these ladies bring our family is spectacular. I am having fun. Dave loves gathering the eggs and seeing who laid today and who didn’t. Watching the hierarchy is amazing. They play follow the leader, which is funny to watch. The hens are sweet and some of them love a good butt scratch and neck rub. But the chicken bath is my favorite thing to watch.
Until next time! Be happy with your chickens!
APPCA member Suzy Dannette Brown is the owner of The Brown Bag Personal Chef. She lives and works in Northern California.
Do you have chickens? Do you want to raise chickens and have questions for Suzy? Be sure to leave a comment!
Not an APPCA member? Now’s the perfect time to join! Go to to personalchef.com to learn about all the benefits that come with membership.
Note: Photos courtesy of Suzy Dannette Brown
When did you get your start in the kitchen? Personal chef and APPCA member Suzy Dannette Brown of The Brown Bag Personal Chef in Felton, Calif., wishes she had photos of herself at age four when she first started cooking. “I come from a long line of cooks,” she says. “In fact, my great grandmother had a cooking show in Montana–long before Julia Child.”
Suzy’s first job was as a busboy at age 16 at the Ridgemark Country Club in Hollister, Calif., where she was raised. In less than a year she’d worked her way up to third cook on the line. Ambitious, she manned the snack bar before school, then hustled back after school to cook. On Sundays she’d work brunch, take a few hours off, and then return to run the dinner crew. That stopped when a new chef was hired who didn’t like women in the kitchen.
While she’d intended to go to culinary school, she did what she thought was practical and ended up going to college for her degree in architectural computer-aided design, or CAD, and then got a series of corporate jobs. But that ended in 2006 and she returned to her true love, the kitchen.
“I decided life is short and I wanted to get back to cooking. I thought I wanted to launch a catering company, but while doing research I stumbled across APPCA. I ordered some of their books. I met Candy (Wallace) and I liked the program. I fell in love with everybody and haven’t looked back. Now I run a personal chef business serving Santa Cruz, Santa Clara, Monterey, and San Benito counties in Northern California.”
Long self taught, Suzy decided to take culinary classes at her local junior college and when she took a nutrition class she had her “aha” moment. “That’s when I knew what my direction would be,” she says. Time wasn’t her friend when it came to going the traditional route for her BA, so she enrolled in the Bauman College of Holistic Nutrition and Culinary Arts, which allows her to go to school remotely. When she finishes in December, she’ll be certified as a holistic nutrition consultant.
Building her business didn’t come easily. She admits she struggled for the first few years. “But then it just turned around and exploded my fourth year and it’s been a crazy train,” she laughs. She attributes a lot of her success to avid networking and promotion.
“Networking is extremely important but not all groups will work for you,” she acknowledges. “You have to take the dollar signs out of your eyes and realize that our business is about building relationships first. If you continue to show up and be a part of your networking group and take yourself out of it by helping others, it’ll come back to you. The important thing is to get your name out there and be generous with referrals. Offer to do market cooking demos. Donate dinners at fundraisers.”
Suzy loves being a personal chef mostly because she likes the people she works for. “I enjoy visiting with them and being a part of their family–because in doing this work I become an extended part of the family. I appreciate helping clients with dietary needs and restrictions. That’s why the nutritionist component is so compelling to me. Plus, it’s broadened my spectrum of cooking.
“I love having something different to do everyday,” she says. “Being a personal chef is great because I get to follow my own path.”
Suzy has given us her calzone recipe below:
From Suzy Dannette Brown
Yield: 3 calzones
Basic Pizza Dough
1 package yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
8 ounces warm water, 110°
1 cup whole grain flour (I use spelt or wheat)
1cup all purpose flour (I use Einkorn)
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon fresh black pepper
¼ cup of favorite fresh chopped herbs (basil, parsley, thyme, chives)
2 tablespoons olive oil
In a small bowl or measuring cup dissolve yeast and sugar in water. Let stand until bubbly, about 10 minutes.
In a food processor pulse flours, spices, and herbs four to five times to combine all ingredients. Add olive oil to yeast mixture. While processor is running pour yeast mixture in slowly and with a steady stream until a dough ball forms.
Turn dough out on a well-floured surface. Knead just enough to combine dough into a nice ball. Rub with olive oil and place in a clean bowl. Cover with a tea towel, place in a warm spot, and let it rise.
Basic Pizza Sauce:
1 medium onion, chopped
4 to 6 cloves garlic, left whole
5 to 6 medium tomatoes, quartered (I love Kumatos or Cherokee Chocolates)
½ cup Fume Blanc
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar (I will use a 18 year)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon or so dry oregano
Pinch or so of red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon tomato paste<
Rough chop onion and toss in a large sauce pan that has olive oil heated over medium heat. Caramelize onion until golden brown. Toss in garlic and continue to sauté.
Add tomatoes and wine. Deglaze pot. Let tomatoes and onions continue to cook until they break down and a sauce starts to form. Season with salt, pepper, red pepper flakes, and oregano.
Place tomato sauce in food processor. Add tomato paste, balsamic vinegar, and a handful of fresh basil. Pulse until well combined and smooth. Set aside.<
Note: If sauce seems a bit loose for pizza sauce, place back into pot and reduce down to desired consistency.
Basic Vegetable Calzone Filling:
10 ounces (284g) fresh spinach cooked down and squeezed free of water
12 ounces (170g) artichoke hearts, chopped
2 to 3 small zucchini, sliced into 1/4” half moons, slightly sautéed to help remove moisture
1 large red onion, sliced and caramelized in olive oil
Feta: I use a goat/sheep
Fresh mozzarella, grated
Manchego or any of your favorite hard cheeses, grated
To make calzone:
Preheat oven to 500° F. Divide dough into three balls and roll out into circles. Spoon some sauce on dough. Add enough mozzarella to cover 1/2 of the dough.
Layer vegetables on cheese. Top with an ounce or two of feta and mozzarella. Fold over and seal. Create a hole on the top to release steam.
Brush with olive oil, manchego cheese, salt and pepper. Bake on a pizza stone at 500° for 12 to 15 minutes.
Note: For a client, par cook for about 8 minutes. just enough to get the dough firm. Remove from the oven and let cool. Then package for freezing. They freeze better par cooked than fully cooked.